UVA Today Blogs: Semester at Sea

As promised, here are short updates from continuing SAS voyagers. The ship departed Antwerp, Belgium, this morning.

FROM KELLY JOHNSTON, GIS SPECIALIST AT THE SCHOLARS’ LAB – U.Va.:

It’s a quiz. Which canal is longer than the Panama Canal, has more ship traffic than the Suez Canal, and shares two letters of its four-letter name with the Erie Canal?

The Kiel Canal in Germany.

Today we saved more than 200 nautical miles and many tons of fuel on our way from Denmark to Belgium by traversing the Kiel through northern Germany.

And the views were a bonus. Lush rolling hills dotted with small farms, orchards, and fields of grain, bicyclists with packs on long journeys, and families camping, fishing, and constant waving - a delightful day.
<!–[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]–> <!–[endif]–>

After 9 hours of canal boating, we exited through a lock into the River Elbe. We waved to the crowds gathered to watch the busy ship traffic. They smiled and waved. We smiled and waved back.

Yours in enjoying tired arms from canal waving, Kelly

FROM RACHEL MOST, Assistant dean of the College of Arts & Sciences at U.Va.:

Belgium: Land of chocolate, beer, diamonds, fashion and the Smurfs

Monday morning we docked in Antwerp after a trip through the historic Kiel Canal and some rough seas. During our cultural pre-port, we learned a few things about Belgium: it’s famous for chocolate, beer, diamonds, fashion and the Smurfs. It may also be the most politically unstable country we are visiting. We learned that the prime minister resigned yesterday, stating he was unable to save the country.

According to folklore, Antwerp got its name because Brabo, a mythical Roman solider, killed a giant named Antigoon and cut off his hand. Antigoon used to asked people for money when they passed the river; when they couldn’t pay, he cut off their hand. Brabo got revenge: Antwerp translates to something like “thrown hand.”

My 1st day was spent taking a walking tour of the city and the (painter) Paul Rubens’ house. My 2nd day was spent taking a tour called “Antwerp: City of Fashion.” One might ask why an archaeology faculty member chose that trip; there is a reason. My mother was a dress designer in New York, and my father owned beauty salons. As an archaeologist, I always had a different sense of style (jeans, work boots, tank tops in the summer, flannel shirts in the winter). But I did grow up in a fashion-conscious environment so I thought I should see what Antwerp had to offer.

I also wanted to learn more about the “Antwerp Six” – a group of influential, avant-garde fashion designers who were all locally trained. The tour had a wonderful guide who showed us all the local shops and took us to the Fashion Museum. The exhibit was one of the most intriguing and different exhibits I have ever seen. The designer featured, Veronique Moi, was inspired by the likes of the TV show “Twin Peaks”and the movies “The French Lieutenant’s Woman” and “Carrie.” Words can’t begin to describe the exhibit: “creative” and “innovative” don’t really do it justice.

Today, Wednesday, was my day to be in the city and explore. Antwerp is a city of angled, cobblestone streets that eventually lead to the Cathedral and then to the main shopping area, Meir Street. I love watching how people interact in their everyday lives (while the anthropologist in me knows that 7-8 hours in a place is not enough to make statements it, the everyday person in me can’t help but do so!)

So, based on my extensive research, I’ve decided that we Americans lack “funk.” We may be stylish and coordinated, but we don’t have funk. I think, like class, this is either something that you have or don’t. I’m not sure it can be learned. But as I walked and shopped up the main street and the side streets, I saw outfits that I have never seen before. The individual pieces were all familiar, but they were put together in different ways.

I also found that stores were organized in unusual ways. Clothes were not organized by size; most seemed to be sorted by color or category (pants, shorts, jackets, etc.). As I tried on different items, the saleswomen were willing to help. But rather than telling me that something looked good, they always asked, Does it fit? I assumed this meant that if I picked it out, I must like it, and all that mattered after that was whether or not it fit me.

I tried to break out of my shell a bit and buy some different things. I don’t think I achieved anything remotely close to funk.

Finally, as I said, Belgium is famous for beer, diamonds, chocolate and the Smurfs. Beer is everywhere. The custom is to serve the kind of beer you order in a glass with the same name. If there’s a mismatch, you are entitled to complain. Chocolate shops are also everywhere as well, and it’s excellent! As for diamonds; they’re beautiful but not in my price range. And as for the Smurfs; no comment.